omg, everyday of my life is action packed. it’s a good thing i have this blog or i will forget what just happened yesterday.
Yesterday i went surfing with Yokota-san. a super cool guy from Kamakura that came to hawaii 6 times before, but surfed yesterday for the first time. so yes, i took him to the best spot, and guided him into the best waves. Yokota-san was super happy and now i’m pretty sure he will surf every time he comes to hawaii.
then i asked him if he ever ate Mexican food before. he said “no.” so we went to Sergio’s and had the best Mexican plate on the island. it was awesome.
then i raced over to the Moniz kids house as they were getting ready for a fishing trip.
i followed them to the harbor because i wanted to video Joshua backing the boat into the water. it was pretty funny but the kid did a great job.
and off they went. every minute these boys spend in the water will prepare them for a wonderful future as watermen.
then today i get up and check the waves at ala moana. it was flat! so i picked up Yasuda-san and we went looking for waves. Kewalo’s was good, but guess what? there was even a better spot with nobody out.
we surfed 2 straight hours at a spot not too many people are able to surf. first, it’s illegal, and second, if one of the angry locals catch you there, you will get beaten up. this isn’t an everyday thing and we were just lucky to have the perfect waves to ourselves!
then i sped home after, hooked up my boat, and went down to ala moana. i asked Kyle to help me get some fish for friends. we dove 2 hours, the water was super dirty, but managed to catch quality fish, then got chased out by 2 sharks. one shark tried to eat a fish off my spear but i pulled it away. no way i’m going to give a shark my delicious fish.
thank you Kyle for helping me fill up my cooler with a great variety of fish. my friends will be very happy!
tomorrow is just another busy day. keep moving forward, keep thinking positive, keep surfing, and keep smiling. that’s the key to a successful lifestyle. try it!
