good evening. took the groms to bowls this morning. i try my best to get them away from kewalo’s because you can get kind of spoiled surfing there. surfing other spots, hassling for waves, and getting dropped in on is good for the mind and soul. i’ve seen kids get spoiled surfing one spot too much and that’s where they end up surfing for the rest of their life. i don’t want that to happen to these kids. surf new spots, make new friends, and challenge yourself…. have a great evening….
about 15 years ago, i bought a lifetime membership for 24HR Fitness. it might have costed me thousands but it was well worth it. going to the gym consistently takes commitment. for me, i go, then i stop, then i go, then i stop. recently i started going again and i feel pretty dam good. no, i can’t lift as much weights as i use to but i’m working my way back up again. instead of power lifting, i’m doing a lot of repetitions. when i leave the gym and almost fall down the stairs walking out, i know i worked out hard. i even sprained my ankle walking out of the gym once because my legs were so tired. and i couldn’t surf for 2 months…. that was stupid.. haha…
there is a ice cream truck passing around surf spots recently. this one was at kewalo’s the other day. the line was pretty long…
in hawaii, we have reef bottom. you hit it hard, you go to the hospital. in japan, there are river mouths. in the river mouths, there are these little pebbles. you hit it hard, you get back up, paddle back out, and get barreled again. the first time i surfed a river mouth was 18 years ago in shizuoka. i can’t say the name of the river because i might get killed. ever since then, it’s been my quest to surf the best river mouth in japan at the best time. so far, i’ve been super lucky. i hope this year is another good year for me….
**and last. reminder again to mark your calendars for august 14, 2010. big party with live music, fun, and games. the flyers should be out soon so stay tuned. as for now, we’re collecting prizes for giveaways. i got some cool stuff already but need more. i want everybody that comes to go home with something. so if you have a company or work for a company that wants to donate something, please let me know. in exchange, we will promote your company to the best we can. thanks and hope to see you there!!! oh, and to all my friends, please come!!!
oh, back to river mouths. this is a river mouth. 17 years ago, i got the barrel of my life. and ever since that day, i must have had over a thousand barrels. the waves range from knee high to hawaiian 10′. i prefer hawaiian 10’…. shit, i’m excited!!!!
