when is the last time you seen backdoor like this? yeah, it’s been that long. this was last winter… shane dorian in the office. 7 photographers all trying to get that perfect shot. not only surfers now days have to get good positioning in the barrel, the photographers have to position themselves too to get that unique one of a kind shot. it’s pretty cool being on both sides. pulling into the barrel and getting your photo taken by lots of photographers and seeing it in a magazine is pretty awesome. and at the same time, swimming in the water while a surfer is coming straight at you trying to get as close as you can get, taking a shot, going home and download it into your computer, and then see it published in some major surfing magazine. that’s pretty awesome too. but if i had to choose one, i’d be the surfer in the barrel for sure…. gosh, i can’t wait for another day like this. when it comes, i’m surfing ALL day…..
**by the way, a lot of people tell me that i’m really lucky because i eat good food all the time. just wanted to say yes, i think i’m lucky too. so thanks to everybody that makes that happen because i’m not eating it by myself….
