good sunny evening. gosh, how good did it feel today when the sun came out? really good. went surfing this morning at sunset point. from the beach, it looked crowded and not that good. paddled out and it was actually pretty fun. head high, clean, and all beginners out. surfed for only 30 minutes but caught some really good waves. supposed to be 8′ by tomorrow afternoon so looking forward to that….
had a freaking nuts crazy fun barbecue at nick nozaki’s house last night. it was good to seeing everybody having a good time. it was raining, muddy, and windy but nobody cared. i don’t remember too much but all i know is that my feet is still dirty…. oh, and i came home with somebody else’s slippers. sorry. wanted to thank nick for letting us invade his house and wanted to thank tokura-san for buying all the food and stuff… arigato gozaimasu….
i passed by the kitchen a couple of times on the way to the bathroom and ended up staying here for most of the night. warm room with warm people….
i was so happy to see yumie. yumie is such a sweet girl. chiaki took like 3 photos of us because yumie kept on closing her eyes. then chiaki said, “good enough, yumie’s eyes in this photo are more open then naoka’s in any of his photos” haha. that was pretty funny….
on the way back from the north shore today, i passed by backdoor and seen my nephew’s and friends hitchhiking for a ride up to rocky point. boys will be boys….
and last, wanted to say thanks so much to tokura-san for everything in hawaii. have a safe return to japan. this is yesterday at a secret beach we surf at least once every year. a place to relax, ride good waves, and enjoy with nobody around for miles and miles…. it’s only us and the turtles….
