good morning. 5am and i couldn’t sleep well because i was thinking about the waves. swells on the way up today and i can’t wait. still too dark to see the waves but i’m going surfing anyway. hope to get barreled today…. have a safe day and see you in the water….
this is aki ogura. aki is a pro bodyboarder from chiba and one of the coolest chicks. i met her for the first time down in wakayama about 4 years ago during a typhoon. before that day, i’ve been there a few times and didn’t even surf because the waves were small. that day, it was aki’s first time there and the waves were going off. lucky girl…. then it was 2 years ago we would meet again. we all went on a boat trip together in the maldives for 2 weeks for a couple magazine articles. that was one of the funnest trips i’ve ever went on. and the rest of the group would probably agree. so it was really good seeing aki last night. what a small world….
this was the international crew. we had south africa, singapore, japan, hawaii, maldives, and jacksan from tennessee… gosh, i can’t wait for another trip like that…
**check out aki ogura’s interview on go-naminori…. CLICK HERE….
**and last, want to check out something amazing? a couple of days ago, there was a huge shark the size of a bus spotted in the waters of molokai. you must see it. it’s nuts!!!!!
