omg, today was a marathon surf day for me. almost 7 hours of surfing! i can’t even count how many waves i caught today but all i can say is that today was a wonderful day in the water. miss molokai, but glad to be back home in my favorite office, the ocean.
first round was with Kawanishi-san. we surfed in hawaii before and i always see him every year at the TSSC contest in shikoku. i was stoked to see him catch so many good waves. thank you Kawanishi-san!
second round was with Kurosawa-san. we surfed all afternoon catching almost every wave that broke in the ocean. a good surfer with a lot of energy. thank you Kurosawa-san! oh, and wanted to thank Toda-san for paddling out and letting me use his stand up paddleboard. gosh, i had a great time, and a great exercise. something different is always fun!
even though i don’t have that much time to be in the kitchen, i love to cook. especially cooking something i caught. it took 45 minutes to cook this tako and once all the juices settled in, it was time to cut it up.
my secret recipe. great with beer and friends.
after i got home from molokai yesterday, i put on my shorts and realized my waist grew 2 inches. i looked down at my stomach and was in shock! i ate too much and gained too much weight. so my dinner was chazuke, and tofu. but after today, i feel like my waist went back to normal. 7 hours of surfing is the best exercise in the world. the waves were good, the weather was good, and the people were good. good night.
