good morning. 6:15am and i think it’s going to be another good day for surf. might have a little morning sickness but should be epic again by noon. wow, i just seen a set at pipe. for some reason, it looks bigger than yesterday? the swell is coming more out of the north. where’s the spot today? sunset. better get out my 7’6. and just checked the surf forecast and it’s looking GOOD!! big back to back to back swells on the way. everybody saying it’s going to be a good march so i’m in no rush. if it’s anything close to how it was last march, we’re going to score. contest season starting up soon so everybody’s out of here. surf, everybody go surf!!!! waves going off!!!! see you in the water….
went to my sisters house last night for a barbecue. my nephew noah came back for a week and will be off to iraq. good to see him back in hawaii and probably appreciating everything about it. and kelia turned 15 a few days ago. gosh, how kids grow up so fast. it seemed like a few days ago when i use to squeeze her chubby cheeks and tickle her all over. can’t do that anymore….
and micah too. he’s a man already. drives a car, surfs big pipeline, breaks unbreakable surfboards, and is way bigger than me. he’s another one i use to tickle all over. maybe i will tackle him in the sand at pipe tomorrow and tickle him. just to embarrass him in front of all his north shore friends… haha…
and here is seth, isaiah, and josh playing a toy baseball game. these guys are super competitive. nobody wanted to lose…. cheat and everything…. classic….
i met matsu about 16 years ago in shonan. at that time, he was going to photography school with kenji. that’s how i met kenji. anyway, kenji went into surfing photography and matsu went fashion photography. two different roads but both have the same interests. surfing… matsu now lives in hong kong and is my hong kong surf report. he always sends me the surf report and that’s somewhere i want to go now. he knows all the secret spots and is living the traveling surfers dream. hope to make it this year so we can share barrels like we use too…. check matsu getting barreled in hong kong. yes, i said hong kong….
not too many people know that you can surf in hong kong. i went there once and surfed at night. well, in the clubs…. haha… i didn’t even know there were beaches there. pretty dumb yeah? but now i know thanks to matsu…. thanks and hope to see you this year…..
