good evening. the waves came down today. it was nothing like yesterday. 4-6′ with bigger sets and packed lineups. brown water around the island and even some waves in town. a bigger swell on the way for early next week. i think our winter season has really started. stay tuned. oh, wanted to say thanks so much to the kimura-san family that left today. i had a super fun time and can’t wait to see you guys in wakayama. oysters, ishidai, sashimi, cold beer, and agua bar…. see you soon…
now days, there are so many bodyboarders out at pipe. and an upcoming bodyboard contest doesn’t help. yesterday had 100 people out at pipe, 60 of them bodyboarders. it gets irritating as a surfer because they are all over the inside like ants. but i have to say this, bodyboarders don’t waste any waves. they catch anything and everything. watching them take vertical drops and not break their backs trips me out. i seen some crazy ass shit yesterday. crazy ass shit like this…
i trip out when i see longboarders take off at pipe. bonga is the man out there but this guy got some good ones too….
a japanese pro bodyboarder taking off deep…..
this is mikey bruneau. mikey was on the same micronesia trip i went on with flynn and daniel jones. he was a grom too dreaming of surfing pipe some day. a few years ago, he got second in the monster pipe pro. and it was real nuts pipe. from then on, his confidence level has risen and is another top guy out there….
and last, i still think wakita is one of the top 10 pipe surfers in the world. he takes off deeper than anybody else and charges. sometimes he eats shit but he gets right back up and does it again. this wave was from deep, even deeper than wakita peak….. a few waves after this, he took off on a huge double up and jumped over the falls. i got the shot and it’s freaking nuts… but can’t show it to you. well, maybe later….
**the full pipeline gallery coming up soon on GO-NAMINORI.COM…..
**and last last, what the heck happened to the sunny mark? shock!!!!
