Ume-Chu!

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next to our hotel, they are building a huge super mall. so construction all day every day. 5am this morning, they were spraying some chemical with a loud sprayer. we walked outside into the chemical fog and that wasn’t the way i wanted to start off my day. i was thinking all day what my first breath of the morning was.
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then we get to the beach and had some fresh clean air. the contest was on hold so we jumped into the car and checked out another spot.
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isn’t this beautiful? bali’s Mt. Fuji!
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and yes, nobody out. perfect barreling rights!
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Kimura-san and i were waiting for the tide to come up a little. was worth the wait.
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then we went back to the contest right as the first heat started. this is the japanese media corner. if it wasn’t for these guys, japan surfing would be finished. everybody’s doing it for pretty much love!
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i want to thank Tomoyuki-san for building this tent for us. if it wasn’t for the shade, we’d all be dead. it was just way too hot!
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here is our mini bar. bintang, jacksan, and ume-chu!
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if you haven’t tried this ume-shu before, you don’t know what you’re missing. a glass of this sweet wine, and you’ll have some sweet dreams.
we surfed early this morning, then watched the contest. some amazing surfing went down. post up some photos i took later. i just got back from the best massage in bali so i’m going to sip on a bintang, and relax! have a great evening!
oh, major upset today, kelly slater lost to cj hobgood. joel parkinson was the man to beat posting 2 perfect 10’s taking out john john florence. pretty exciting day. bali saiko!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide