i get up early this morning and look outside. super clear sky and no wind. do some work on the computer and head to the beach. it’s sunday today so that means crowded spots everywhere, except a couple of secret spots. so i speed down my hill and check out secret spot 1.
super perfect and nobody out!
then i check secret spot 2 and only 3 guys out. the waves were better there so that’s where i went. it’s weird surfing such empty waves recently. my timing couldn’t be any better. thank you Inaida-san for taking this photo of me. and thank you for the delicious miso soup right after i got out of the water. i think i’m getting spoiled?
i was home by 9am so i jumped on the harley and cruized round the east side. i couldn’t believe how clear it was near sandy beach. i could see the islands of molokai, maui, and even the big island. days like these are really rare!
found some cool pics off surfline.com. here is josh moniz at huntington beach. can’t wait till this kid is on the WCT tour!
and i went by the house to see seth today. he’s been to nicaragua and huntington for the last month. as soon as he got back home, he told me he couldn’t believe how blue the sky is in hawaii. this is the part of traveling i love. it makes you appreciate this beautiful islands of hawaii.
surfed ala moana this afternoon and it was super fun too. not too crowded and perfect long waves. everyday it’s 2 rounds for me and i’m not sure how much darker i can get. you just have to love the weather we’ve been having recently! got a massage this evening by the best in the world, ate lobster and peking duck, and now i’m home ready to sleep with a big smile on my face. good wonderful night!
