good morning. big waves out on the north shore and still on the way up. pipe looks 6′ and should be getting bigger. got a bunch of guys out already. conditions clean and should be epic as the day goes along. we even got a south swell going. town has some chest high waves at some spots. another awesome day of surfing so get out there and enjoy it….. have a great day…
from thursday to sunday, they set up shop and sell huli huli chicken on the north shore. right next to aoki shave ice, you can smell the chicken cooking and gosh, it smells good. i’ve eaten there a few times and i love it. if you haven’t tried it before, you don’t know what your missing out….
half a chicken with 2 scoops rice for $6? that’s a deal. i usually get that and a homemade lemonade that costs a dollar, with free refills. the shrimp is pretty good too but you can’t beat the chicken. and the best part about it is some of the proceeds go to the church. can’t wait till next thursday….[:????????$B!/(B???:][:????????$B!/(B???:][:????????$B!/(B???:]
and last, this is chigusa. chigusa is one of japan’s top women’s pro bodyboarder. i’ve known her for a long time and have surfed with her often both in japan and hawaii. does she charge? i think probably the most. a couple of years ago, chigusa rode a 20′ set at waimea bay. that was nuts. and about 5 years ago, i seen her ride this pretty big and crazy wave at a river mouth in japan all the way through the shorebreak. that was more nuts. if chigusa was a guy, she would have some pretty big balls. this is one brave and cool bodyboarder chick….
