good evening. i woke up this morning and looked out my window. no clouds in the sky. first time since last year october and i ain’t joking…. i was happy because i knew it was going to be a good day..
went out to the north shore and it was firing. everywhere going off!!!! check out waimea bay…. beauty man….
get this, i called the 596-7873 surf report at 3pm and it said that pipeline was 4-6′. wrong. this is pipe at 12pm and it is 10-12′ and breaking from the second reef. it was bigger than yesterday….
passed by haleiwa around 2pm and it was looking pretty fun. 2-3′ with 8′ sets…. obake sets….
then the same surf report said that town was 1-2′. wrong. i passed by waikiki this afternoon and queen’s was going off!!! perfect right point break with not too many guys out. i couldn’t resist and went to go out to catch a few waves…. this photo is of diamond head. seen some solid 4′ sets and it looked super fun too. nobody knows there’s waves in town so not too many guys were out. tomorrow will be a different story…
and last, wanted to wish sano-san from fuji-gawa a safe flight back to japan and good luck in his surfing future…. ganbatte ne…..
