BB to Surfer

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photo 1
i had a great time surfing with Hisako-san today. she’s from kobe and bodyboards, but wanted to surf in hawaii. from her first wave, she stood up, and after that, we paddled out and caught big sets. the waves, weather, and crowd was perfect! she did a great job and i’m sure she’ll be surfing again and again. thank you Hisako-san for a super fun day surfing, eating, and visiting nature! keep on surfing!
photo 2
i go up this mountain about 4-5x a week. this is one place in hawaii i can never get tired of. it’s just too beautiful, relaxing, and the freshest air on the island.
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talk about fresh. check out Kyle’s first Big Ahi caught by fishing. the first thing i asked was “did you spear the dam thing when you reeled it up near the boat?” he said “of course!” gosh, i wish i was there because i guarantee you i would have jumped into the water and speared that huge beast! you just don’t want to lose one of these prized and expensive fish so spearing it in the head will secure it, and will also kill it. i can’t wait to catch me one!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide