yesterday was sunday so everywhere in the afternoon was crowded. i really wanted to get a surf in but didn’t know where to go. then!!! i remembered my secret spot! i drove there, checked the waves, nobody out, so i paddled out and had a great surf session. then some guy that wasn’t local paddled out and kept following me around. the spot is super wide with peaks everywhere but he kept on coming close to me. i guess he knew i was local and knew the spot better than him so he kept on following me everywhere. i was kind of annoyed so i took every wave that came. then when i had enough, i went in a happy man. there are sometimes i like to surf with a lot of people, and there are other times i like to surf alone. today was just one of those days. and when i have a magic board like this one i just got from TSSC shaper Glenn Minami, i feel good riding anything!
i’ve been sponsored by Dove Wetsuits for the past 21 years. i like the best and that’s why i’m wearing Dove!
a perfect fit.
keep warm and flexible.
Cold water hand wash.
Drip dry.
Do not dry clean.
Do not bleach.
Do not iron.
Do not drop in.
if you haven’t tried a Dove Wetsuit before, you must be cold! haha.
Click here for Dove Wetsuits!
