had such a great time with Mr. and Mrs. Niimura this morning. super stoked to see them surfing so much better than last year. last year the waves were huge! today, it was perfect size and perfect conditions. we scored!
after a long surf session, us surfers get hungry. so it was mexican for the amigos!
after i ate all this, i was so full. mexican food is so good, but also so filling.
the waves were so beautiful today everywhere! diamond head looked really good around 1pm with long rides and not too many people. Team Ina and i surfed pretty dam good bowls rights this afternoon. everybody looking happy and healthy!
good waves, good surfing, and good times. the weather is perfect, the water is warm, and the waves are awesome. keep on surfing everyday and life a happy and healthy life. good night