wow, caught some awesome waves this morning again! not too crowded and perfect consistent waves peeling a long way. my board is working good, my body is feeling good, and my mind is at a place i want it to be. i can’t describe to you how much i love surfing. it’s my life and everything else goes around it. another satisfying day!
the closest surf point in hawaii that resembles indonesia is Publics outside to the left of waikiki. when you see lines and lines of swell hitting the reef and peeling like this, it means that the waves are long and nice. this is the current amazing south swell!
super happy to surf with Rika-chan the other day. she’s a super good dancer in japan and that’s probably why her balance is amazing. this girl didn’t even fall once. good style, good power, good balance, and good surfer.
Rika-chan’s Mama surfs good too! i like photos like this because you can see the action. riding the wave while the winds are blowing your hair back. beautiful!
great time, great people, and great day! thank you all!!!!
just wanted to say hello to Inaida-san. i shot this photo on our last session of this month. next month is coming soon and there will be much more waves ridden. see you soon!
how do i balance out a hard day? well, after spending 5-6 hours in the ocean, i jump on the harley and speed up towards the mountains. it is cool, the air is fresh, the smell is amazing, and the sunsets are gold. i pull a beer out of my pocket, open it, and toast to mother nature. thanking her for the wonderful day! then i get bit by hundreds of mosquitos so i speed down the mountain and put kinkan all over my body. haha.
now i’m packed, excited, and ready to take the flight to mexico. just another journey to somewhere i’ve never been before. i’m excited to see the nature, experience the culture, and meet new friends. the diving is just the bonus. yeah, my dream is to spear a marlin, but if that doesn’t happen, it’s ok. i’m just going with the flow, relaxing my mind, and enjoying life. have a wonderful evening!
