good morning. 5:30am and the waves should be good today so i’m out of here…. see ya….
this photo is from the other day at pipe. i seen a guy take off super deep and pull into the barrel, then somebody dropped in and pulled in too. i was just looking at it through my lens and was thinking what an asshole for dropping in. then in the back, i seen this shadow coming from deep inside. the guy in the back freaking made the barrel, both of them did…. so i snapped this shot and that’s the story….
and last, just an empty wave from the other days secret shorebreak session…. puinsai!!!
