good evening. wow, in all my lifetime, today was probably the longest, most fun, and most exhausting day for me. here’s how it went….
left my house before 6am. when i got the the north shore, the sun was rising out of the east… great start to a great day…. surfed backdoor this morning. it was pretty good early but then got inconsistent and smaller. scott aichner, kinsan, sahara, kamio, daniel, along with a couple other water photographers were swimming in the closeout zone waiting to get the shot. i haven’t hooked up with any photographer this whole season so i thought i’d better do my job. paddled down where the closeouts were and went on my first one. take off, pull in, hit the reef, and paddle back out wondering what the hell i’m doing. next, same thing. next, same thing. i did it 3 times until my board broke. if you want a photo on a day like today, that’s your only choice so you have to do it. my leg hurts from hitting the reef so hard, and my magic 6’8 is broken. was it worth it? just have to wait and see…. surfed for over 3 hours until the wind started getting weird. jumped in my car still wet and speeded my way back to town. why?
because today was the best day of the year so far to go diving…. hayato met me at my house, hooked up my boat, and headed off to meet shawn at the hawaii kai boat harbor….
passed by sandy beach….
passed by rabbit island…. and ended up in waimanalo 30 minutes later….
dove for a few hours, shawn getting chased by a shark, hayato spearing the most fish i’ve ever seen him spear, filled up my big cooler, and started heading back….
as we were making our way back around makapuu point, a huge mother whale and a baby whale were jumping right in front of my boat. it was pretty amazing. i told hayato to “jump in” and check it out. he looked at me like i was crazy. i’m not the one jumping in so i’m not crazy. haha… but it’s an experience of a lifetime so why not? so shawn and hayato went to jump in. check out the splash from the whale just jumping. and that little black spot is hayato’s head. next time i go diving, i’m taking my good camera and going to swim and shoot the whales… stay tuned…
i still can’t believe we filled up my big cooler with fish. all good fish…. here shawn is taking out his share…
so it was dawn till dusk for me. over 7 hours in the water, 3 hours driving, about $50 worth of gas, 3 barrels, 3 closeouts, one broken board, one hurt leg, sunburned face, a lot of fish, and one tired ass guy. don’t anybody call me tonight or i will beat you up. i’m going to sleep….. goodnight….
**more photos coming soon….
