wow, what another amazing surf day in hawaii. i pulled up to bowls this morning and didn’t expect 4′ sets and perfect conditions. there was the leftover east swell and the building south/west swell so there was a lot of swell and energy in the ocean. i caught 2 unbelievable barrels at bowls going right! yeah, the two swells were coming together and some of the rights were super barreling. i thought i was at big rights! i’ve never seen it like that before. then i came into the parking lot and my friend stopped her truck in front of me, ran out, and said “help me kirby!!!!” what? i thought somebody was chasing her and trying to kill her or something.
come to find out, she was driving to the beach and a mouse was running around in her truck freaking her out. haha. so i spent 40 minutes trying to catch the mouse. in the end, the mouse was smarter than me so i gave up and it’s probably still in her truck. it was actually pretty cute. and very smart.
then i went for round 2 in the afternoon. OMG! the waves got bigger!!!! i couldn’t believe how good rock piles lefts was! it looked like indonesia or something. super long lefts with perfect off shore winds. it was amazing!
Hide-san is such a cool and funny guy. i was watching wave after wave breaking on his head as he was trying to get back out. i counted over 30 waves straight crashing down on him. i told him “wow, over 30 waves just broke on your head, that’s crazy!” he replied “no, not 30 waves, 2000 waves broke on my head.” haha. hey Hide-san, i hope you get a good massage tonight because we are going to surf some big waves again tomorrow! be ready!
3 days ago a 20 year old surfer got bitten on the leg from a tiger shark in ewa beach. then yesterday, a lady in maui got bitten by a shark. wow, the sharks are hungry!
well, for the next 25 days straight, i have surfing, surfing, and surfing in my schedule. that means i’m going to get darker than i already am? OMG!
