good evening. woke up early again and headed to the north shore. pulled up and i just paddled out. seen like 40 guys out so i thought it was going off. got to the lineup and i was the only surfer out there. there were freaking 40 bodyboarders…. and the waves weren’t that good, the current was strong so it seemed just like a practice session for the bodyboard contests coming up tomorrow. i was over it. caught one wave, and ended up paddling in after only 30min or so…..
i snapped this photo with my cel phone. gosh, the waves look pretty good yeah? trust me, it wasn’t as good as it looks. if it was, i wouldn’t be sitting on the beach. heard the contest will be going off in the next 3 days so i’m glad it will be over soon. so i got 3 days to go diving and then i’m surfing out there every single good day it breaks until april…..
i had a better time sitting on the beach with kenji, chiaki, and kinsan talking story….
and yes, buoy 1 that measures the size and intervals of all our winter swells is still broken. heard today that it will be out until december 2008. i’m glad because nothing’s better than getting to the north shore at dawn not knowing what to expect. it’s been like that all winter and i scored some good sessions with nobody around….
and last, check out this cool photo from the surfers path website. it’s cool to look at but not too cool if your that surfer bungie jumping….
**and last last, i haven’t took an afternoon nap in a long long time. this is how i looked today….
