woke up this morning and the waves were still big and kind of dangerous. we had such a fun night singing karaoke and all the beers added up. i just had to get into the ocean. Keith came by, we looked out front, and surfed the totally empty and closed beach. when i was in the water, i was thinking what would happen if i got arrested or something? that would be embarrassing.
3 swimmers drowned on this beach 2 weeks ago. even for surfers like us, it’s kind of challenging conditions. when i paddled out, i counted 35 waves i had to duck dive. just overhead wave one after the other. super powerful beach break. Keith said “let’s go!” so “let’s go!”
i was in a pretty good cycle with the ocean. i didn’t see any good waves when we were checking but i actually caught some good ones. had a super fun session surfing taiwan!
Anan took these photos of me. a good photographer catching all the moments of this morning. here i am sneaking back out of the yellow keep out tape.
after our session, we jumped in the taxi, 2 hour ride to the train station, 2 hour train ride, 10 minute bus ride, now we are going to get on a 1.5 hour flight to okinawa! super long day but had so much fun exploring this beautiful country!
when i got to taipei station, i dropped off my homeless friend and said goodbye and see you again. haha!
