wow, it’s been 12 years since the terrorist acts of 9/11. i still remember getting calls from friends around 3am telling me to turn on the tv. then as i started to awaken, the second airplane went through the second tower of the world trade center live on tv. i was in total belief! and to tell you the truth, i still am. what a crazy world we live in.
had the coolest day with Sasaki-san yesterday morning. the night before, he called me and said “where are we going to surf tomorrow?” i asked why. he said “i want to surf with just a few people out and not too many locals.” i said “ok, let’s go surf bowls!” haha. bowls is the most heaviest localized spot in town. but at the same time, the best wave too. Sasaki-san hasn’t left japan until this trip so i wanted to teach him the hawaiian local surfing style. i told him to sit next to me and when i go, drop in and enjoy the ride. localism here in hawaii is totally different than japan and i wanted him to know that if you respect the locals, they will respect you. i was super stoked to see him catching so many waves. and also stoked for him to be able to meet and surf with one of the world’s top shaper GO-NAMINORI OFFICIAL BLOGGER WADE TOKORO!
then we went to go eat some pho. yes, much better and healthier than a locomoco. haha.
Sasaki-san is a super cool guy and a great surfer from Ibaraki. i wanted to say hello to all the boys in Ibaraki, especially Onosei-san and the rest at Wedge Surf! keep on surfing you guys! and wanted to congratulate Sasaki-san on his wedding day in hawaii. i told him that you should be very grateful to marry a person that will let you go surfing the day after your wedding in hawaii. you found a golden wife!
last, the iPhone 5s was introduced today. where do i stand in line to get mine? and to all you lucky Docomo users in japan, starting september 20th, you can have one too!
