good morning. 5:45am. it’s my turn to get barreled. i’m going north shore. still pitch dark but the waves look 3-5′ and good. have a nice day….
i forgot about these photos i had in my dig. cam. this was the party a few weeks ago on the north shore. starting from the left is akira shido. i think of all the japanese pro’s that came to the north shore this season, akira got the best barrel at backdoor. you will see that wave in some japanese magazine really soon. that’s a guarantee. next it zuccho. my first time to chiba back in 1992, i seen this guy ripping the shit out of shidashita. he was riding an “island classic surfboard” back then. i didn’t know who he was, he didn’t know who i was. but he said hi to me. i will never forget that….. cool guy… check out ZUCCHO’S BLOG…. next is kinsan. kinsan is the most hardcore photographer in the world. not just in japan, in the world. who else swims on a boogie board past 10′ waimea shorebreak to get out to the 20’+ lineup? he’s been doing that for 20 years and is still doing that today. no food, no water, but he’s out there all freakin day. oh, and huge sunset beach too…. next is hayato. i met hayato’s older brother claude about 14 years ago at a barbecue at my house. it was at the barbecue when claude told me he had two brothers. i finally got to meet hayato and taito a few years later. then hayato and i went on the same boat trip to northern sumatra. since then, we became super good friends that share the two same hobbies. diving and enjoying life. that’s what we do.. check out HAYATO’S BLOG….
and this is pro bodyboarder moe watanabe. moe is a super cute and sweet girl. i think she’s still in high school. still young so watch out bodyboarders, moe’s time will come….
check out the NEW GO-NAMINORI STICKERS…. got them in orange, black, and blue. looks pretty cool…. want one? wait just a little while longer till it’s all printed out….
SURF YOUR DREAM…. that’s what i’m doing. what about you???
