good evening. what’s up everyone, BIG NEWS IN HAWAII….. BUOY 1 IS UP AND WORKING!!! i heard it was going to be down until late this year but i’ve been checking it every so often. actually, everyday. well today it was on. good news for surfers in hawaii. now we can get back to the best way of predicting wave size and time of arrival. i’ll explain how that works later. but for you surfers that check the buoys everyday more times than you check on your girlfriend, here it is. CLICK HERE FOR BUOY 1….
what another great day of surfing here in hawaii. the waves have been going off!! not too crowded and just perfect….
i’ve been leaving my house pretty early this past 2 weeks. it was cool looking at the full moon and one twinkle twinkle little star…. this was about 6am. i pulled up to backdoor expecting it to be 3-5′ and easy. instead, it was 4-6′ with bigger sets and crazy… super thick a-frame sets all day at backdoor/pipe and off the wall. i surfed backdoor all morning. got a couple barrels and gosh, it felt so dam good. then i came in to grab my camera for a couple of shots. i swam out the danger zone. between off the wall and backdoor is the most dangerous way to paddle out. if you time it right, your ok. if not, your not ok. today i swam through there because i was too lazy to go around. big mistake. right as i got out, a freak 8′ set sucked up and broke right on me. i got pounded to the reef. then i got pounded again and again. i felt like a rag doll. i was beat….
this is what the waves looked like. it was 6′ backdoor, 8′ off the wall, with perfect conditions…
after surviving my backdoor session, i drove by waimea bay. everytime i pass by there on a nice day, i always say to myself “gosh, what a beautiful island i live on”….
i drove by haliewa on the way back to town. haleiwa was overhead and perfect. but i was surfed out so i just watched it for a while….
then it was an afternoon session up at the pool. did some laps underwater and some relaxation exercises. while i was relaxing underwater, i was thinking to myself “i think i’m in the water too much”. think so?
**anyway, epic surf forecasted for tomorrow. same thing. early morning session…. have a great night sleep because i sure will….[:Zzz:][:Zzz:][:Zzz:]
