yes, another great day and another great surf session. gosh, the waves were so perfect yesterday! a long boarders dream! Yuki-san caught so many good waves on this trip! good waves everyday!
Inaida-san riding perfectly as i check to see if my camera is filming. check ok! sharing waves is what surfing is all about!
happy surfers equals happy life.
riding a wave and standing up is the easy part of surfing. understanding the waves, currents, winds, tides, and equipment is the hard part. it takes time, patience, and knowledge. as for diving under waves, there is an easy way to dive under a big wave, and there is a hard way. once you learn the easy way like Inaida-san did, you don’t have to worry anymore. it’s all about going with the flow.
this is perfect flow! and once you master this technique, you’re ready for big waves!
and last, after a long day of fine surfing, a bottle of fine wine is a treat. Robert-Denogent from France is the best bottle of white wine i’ve ever had in my life. get a bottle from fujioka’s or tamura’s and you won’t be disappointed. cheers!
