good evening. dawn patrolled backdoor again this morning. pulled up and the waves were still solid 4′ and pretty good….
jumped in for a surf with my brand new 6’6 minami. i knew it was a little short for out there but i wanted to try it out. caught a few waves and the board was working good. little short, but good. then as i was about to go in, a solid a-frame set came to me so i paddled my ass off to catch it. i got stuck at the top of the wave and i was already committed. so there’s 2 things you can do. one is to just go over the falls with your board and hope your fin doesn’t cut you or your nose doesn’t go up your ass. the other is to throw the board to the side and jump off. a little safer but still dangerous. kind of like bungie jumping. so that’s what i chose to do. i jumped from the top feet first, looked down at the shallow reef, and just closed my eyes. i penetrated the water and didn’t hit the reef, yeah, then comes the second part. the part where the wave picks you up and throws you back down with the lip. that’s when i put my arms around my head to protect it from the reef. at this point, you really don’t know where your going to hit on the reef. i ended up hitting my ass. my right cheek to be exact. it wasn’t too bad but i’m sure it will be bruised tomorrow morning. i’m happy with that because it could have been a lot worst….
so after, it was off to work. went on a photo shoot with kenji. those two girls are part of the go-naminori team…. chiaki and yumie….
a beautiful day with two beautiful girls. i wanted to say 3 but kenji ain’t that beautiful… haha…. just joking….
then i came home and my brother and shane just got home from diving. this was the daily fresh catch… gosh, if i went diving with them this morning, my ass would be fine. i only can sit on the left side now…
fresh fish and tako. can’t beat that. wait a little because the killer tako recipe is coming up on go-naminori soon….
and last, this is what you call “too much diving”. this is a blister on my foot from my fins. it doesn’t hurt when i go diving or swimming. but it hurts like hell at night. i was walking around my house last night wondering what all the red spots were. shit, it was blood from my blister. itai. gosh, my body is getting beat up. i’d better slow down…. not…..
