The Present….

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good monday morning. waves in town!! good conditions!! get on it!!! diamond head is the spot. it’s about 4′ and super super glassy. as for north shore, forget it. onshore and small. it’s going to be a beautiful day so enjoy it!!! save gas, surf town…..

i went to check diamond head yesterday afternoon right when the winds changed. gosh, the waves looked super fun…. today will be super funner…..

and once again, a tsunami warning was issued when a 7.2M earthquake shook up the mentawai islands on monday. freakin scary….
**i walk into andy’s sandwich shop a lot and always read the messages taped on the walls. this one was new so thought i’d share it. it’s pretty cool….

DON’T WORRY ABOUT YESTERDAY,
BECAUSE IT’S HISTORY.
DON’T WORRY ABOUT THE FUTURE,
BECAUSE IT’S A MYSTERY.
LIVE FOR TODAY AND APPRECIATE IT,
BECAUSE EACH DAY IS A GIFT.
THAT’S WHY IT’S CALLED THE
“PRESENT”…..


and last, check out this photo of these 3 dolphins rina sent me. freaking awesome. thanks rina. i think i’m going to swim with the dolphins today. have a nice day…

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide