good evening. shitty waves around the island today. south/west winds screwing up everywhere except the east side. but the waves are flat so no good. some rain, some sun, some winds, and some of everything. a shitty day for some, but an awesome day for me…. tomorrow expect north winds with a south swell. what does that mean? yeah, i’ll see you out there….
wanted to thank fabian for sending me this photo this morning. this was yesterday morning at backdoor. the bungie jump wave. looks pretty cool.. haha… neal miyake, who i’ve know for years took this photo. right after i came up, neal was right there and said “yeah kirby”… now i know why. he got the shot…. when i first seen this photo, my ass got sore again… itai…. i haven’t bungie jumped a wave on the north shore for years. yesterday was the first in a long time. it really wakes you up. right when you start to get comfortable at one of the deadliest surf spots in the world that has claimed many lives, you eat shit like this and become much more humble. right now i’m pretty humbled. i realize that things could have been worst so i’m happy with my bruised ass. do i want to bungie jump again? heck no…. anyway, thanks again fabian for sending me this photo and thanks neal for taking it. i’ll keep this one forever and always look at it when i start to get too comfortable out there…. aloha….
*gosh, i jumped off the top of this wave and got thrown out in front. i must have been about 15′ in the air? ouch, my ass is hurting again.. better go get another ice pack on it. goodnight….
