another long super fun day! woke up early and drove down to diamond head. OMG!
it was totally perfect! nice glassy conditions with some head high waves breaking super long. rides for over a minute for sure.
went surfing with Osada-san and Yuki-san again. i gave them 2 options. first: we go surf diamond head. the waves were good but too many people out. we can surf there and catch maybe 3 waves per hour. second: we surf bowls because i know it will be empty and i know they can catch 10-12 waves per hour. it was an easy choice as they both caught way more waves than that! happy surf day!
we had lunch and went to the north shore! pulled to backdoor/pipe and the waves were coming up. some 6-8′ sets and guys getting barreled both ways!
the beaches are empty but come december, there will be thousands of people watching the pipeline masters.
we stopped by the billabong house to say hello to my sister and the kids. the best surfing view in the world!
it was Osada-san’s first time to the north shore so he was pretty excited to see pro surfers getting barreled right in front of him. you see things you can’t see on video. it doesn’t get anymore live than this!
seen my nephew Seth get a few out there. super stoked to see this kid living right in front of the most infamous surf spot in the world. come december, the world series of surfing will have all its attention to this beach and i hope my nephews shine.
my sister shot this from the balcony. we just were sitting down enjoying the scenery. i can’t wait to get my big barrel soon!
been in the ocean working everyday since i got back from the philippines. i see a 2 day vacation for me coming up soon. molokai? japan? taiwah? philippines? haha. i wish!
