No Magic Island….

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good morning. 5:45am wednesday morning. waves around the island, no wind, and clear skies. it’s going to be another fun day of surfing. i’m out of here… have a nice day….

i was down at the ala wai yacht harbor yesterday and saw these photos hanging on the wall. this is old hawaii. look good and you will have a hard time figuring out where this is. why? because there’s no magic island. magic island was built over a nice coral reef and when i saw this photo, it kind of pissed me off. look at that a-frame wave breaking right where there is a lagoon now. that sucks on what the government use to get away with in the old days. this will never happen again in hawaii. this is the surf spot and reef that we let them take away….

and here’s another one. this isn’t the north shore of hawaii. this is waikiki. yes, waikiki. no hotels and high rises. all it took was one and others followed. now i’m going to fight to keep the country country. once we let one hotel go up out there, more will follow…. yes, money is evil…..

when i was in high school, we use to head down to this park on the weekends and have crazy barbecues. i went there yesterday to check the waves and when i looked at those picnic benches, i had thousands of memories…. oh, the good old days….. do you know where this park is? doubt it….

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide