good evening. gosh, yet another good day of surf on the island. everywhere was clean and good. i headed out to the north shore and when i pulled up to off-the-wall, not one surfer was out. i was out there….
check out this wave!! last week, there would be everybody on this. but not today… i went out there and had a stress free comfortable session. probably my first one of the year. and hopefully many more to come….
then after getting barreled, i jumped in my car and headed to kyle’s house on the east side. gosh, it was such a beautiful drive going over the H-3…. note: check how clear my front window is in this photo….
got to klye’s house and i was super stoked to see my gyotaku print. this is the big kumu i caught the other week. i didn’t realize how big it was…. kyle’s father makes the prints and i’ll give you the whole scoops in an upcoming blog. i was super happy and went speeding back to the frame shop in town.
as i passed through the likelike tunnel, i seen some city workers cutting down the trees. the all of a sudden, i heard a “crack”…. shit, something flew on my front windshield of my car and cracked my windshield. it wasn’t there before right? shit, i was bummed…. check out the crack going across the window. that sucks… but i’m still happy about my gyokaku print… yeah!!!! worry about the window later….
this is kyle’s boat. check out the yamari sticker he put on it. that’s sick… speaking about yamari, just wanted to say hello to the kimura family and everybody at the factory in wakayama. see you guys soon….
