good morning. 6am thursday morning. waves back up on the north shore. it looks around 4-6′ but should be getting bigger because the buoys are up. conditions? perfect!!! more perfect than perfect yesterday. get it? town is small. some leftover waist/chest high sets and expect packed lineups. i checked the park yesterday and must have seen 200 guys out. surfing is still booming…. girls, boys, men, women, dads, moms, grandpas and grandmas. everybody’s surfing now days. that’s cool… well, i gotta get out of here. i’m going surfing. see you in the water. have a safe day and hope your front window doesn’t crack. shit, i couldn’t stop thinking about it all night. it’s going to cost $404 to fix. i want to find that little rock and beat it up… ahhhhhh…..[:??????:][:??????:]
wanted to thank kenji sahara for sending me this photo of isaiah moniz surfing nanakuli tracks…. nice shot….
**when i use to go to clubs, i’ve seen and heard everything. but when i read this pick up line in a magazine, i couldn’t stop laughing. this is actually a good one. but don’t use it because it won’t work on me… haha…. enjoy….
“I’m new in town and can’t find my way around; could I have directions to your place?”