What a Bad Day…

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good evening. gosh, after yesterday’s bad day with my cracked windshield, i was wondering what else could go wrong. and with the water leaking badly in my shower, i had so many things on my mind today. so there i was, out at waikiki surfing with the two girls from akita. everything was good, nice waves, super fun session, so i’d figure i’d take my camera out of my pocket to get a photo of the girls. rested it on my lap to line up the boards, then a wave came and took it right off my lap. shit!!! i just seen my new olympus 790 expensive camera fall into the deep sand…. i dove down and tried to look for it but no way. too much waves and sand making the water murky. i tried for 20 minutes and some of the stand up paddle guys and tony were helping me but no sign. i was bummed. super bummed. had so many great photos on there that i still didn’t download onto my computer yet. i cried underwater when i was looking for it and that didn’t work. i even swore like a high school kid getting into a fight. i’m glad i was underwater too for that. think positive kirby. that’s what i was saying for the rest of the day. so positive is what i’m thinking. i’m healthy and didn’t get hurt. you can buy another camera, but you can’t buy another kirby. haha…. just joking. so there it is, my sad story for today. please don’t anybody give me shit about it. i want to forget what happened….. and driving around with a cracked windshield doesn’t help one bit….

and wasn’t it a gloomy day today? dark, cloudy, and muggy. yesterday was picture perfect hawaii and today was picture unperfect hawaii. but the girls told me that today’s weather is good for akita so i shouldn’t be complaining. sorry…

everybody wants to see kalua so kalua we went to see. still big and growing faster than seth. no, seth is not getting smaller, it’s just that kalua is getting bigger….

and carissa moore is in australia kicking ass right now. she won the women’s trials and scored the highest wave in the roxy pro event. yes, a perfect 10. carissa faces the women’s 2007 world champion next and if i was the champ, i would be scared… go carissa…

and wanted to thank kenji sahara for taking this shot of my last wave at off the wall yesterday. i just came out of the barrel, did a cutback, came in, got in my car, and headed back home. what a nice day in the office…
**and some sad news. a 28 year old surfer died yesterday surfing silver channels in mokuleia. i don’t know why but that’s a bummer. gosh, i hope it isn’t anybody i know. my heart goes out to that surfers family and friends…. and to everybody else, enjoy and appreciate your life because it can end in any second…

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide