what a crazy day for waves and weather! been in the sun all day long and i’m so sunburnt! surfing, surfing, and surfing!
Abe-san is from miyagi prefecture, ishinomaki to be exact. a long time local surfer who’s life changed after 3/11. he only surfed once after the tsunami and that was with me back in march. today was his second session and boy did he look so happy to be back in the ocean. the waves were absolutely perfect, glassy, and long! Abe-san caught so many good waves and surfed so good! there was a big overhead obake set that came in and i yelled “GO!!” he went and rode it all the way! super stoked to surf with Abe-san again. Abe-san’s wife gave me a doll “Sendai Shiro” the last time they came to hawaii and ever since then, my life has been loaded with fortune and happiness! i will never forget this wonderful couple!
after i dropped Abe-san off, i drove by Diamond Head and it looked absolutely perfect! i was going to paddle out and then i got a text from this little girl i’ve been taking surfing. “can u take me surfing today?” i replied “of course!” i went to pick her up, pick up her friend, and headed to the beach. they even had a special request “can you take us surfing on your boat?” i’m super weak when it comes to cute little girls. of course!
it’s every persons dream to stand in front of a boat with your hands spread out just like the movie titanic. i’ve done it over 100 times already. it’s this little girls 15 time.
imagine 2 middle school girls enjoying the weekends surfing together. to see the ocean growing onto them makes me a very happy person. the waves were super good and had some overhead sets but they were charging hard! another great surfing day in hawaii! next week same thing right?
last, my brother sent me a photo of the orphanage kids he’s been teaching english to in cambodia. he saw the kids playing pool! they made it using a box, screws, string, a tshirt, marbles, and used chopsticks. that is so cool! keep up the great work Davis! and tell the kids i said “Aloha from Hawaii!”
