i’ve been getting up at 4:30am every morning recently. wondering why? maybe because i’ve been sleeping at 9pm every night? maybe i’m getting old but i like to wake up early and start off my wonderful day ahead. have so many things to do so i’m either working or running around all day so by the time i get home, my eyes are closing.
so this morning i get a text at 5am from my sister “seth is paddling out for his heat!” i turn on my computer and watch the contest live in brazil. i watch USA Seth Moniz surfing some of the worst waves i’ve ever seen. the waves and conditions were terrible. like a big storm in the sea and if you’re lucky to get a good wave, you win. Seth wasn’t so fortunate and lost in round 3. then i get a text from my sister after his heat “go all the way across the world, spend thousands of dollars to surf shitty waves, when home is perfect.” i was laughing! that’s part of contest surfing. and that’s why you don’t see too many hawaiians on tour. why travel around the world spending hard earned money to surf junk waves? hawaii has some of the best waves in the world and it’s been super good this week. i’m sure Seth is super bummed in brazil now. i’m sure he’d rather be getting barreled at pipeline right now!
then the next heat Reo Inaba gets super good waves and wins his heat. japanese surfers are use to surfing junk waves, especially beach breaks. so waves in brazil was just like a normal day at home. Reo surfed so good and smart. i’m sure the japanese surfers will go far in this contest.
after watching dark sky, dirty water, and full wetsuits in the contest, i decided to jump on my boat and go for a ride. it was the total opposite! blue sky, clean water, and surf trunks. the water was like a mirror today which meant glassy surfing!
want to congratulate my friend Wendell Kong on catching his first fish on his new boat. lomilomi oi’o bro!
and last, OMG, Paul McCartney’s 3 concerts in tokyo are sold out!!!! i had marked on my calendar the dates because i was going to be in japan. shock!
