omg, last nights rain was crazy! and with the winds and rain this morning, i knew it would be a challenging day. the water was so dirty when we went to check bowls. there is no way in the world i would jeopardize anybody’s safety just to surf so we went to check diamond head. the winds were strong and wrong and it was ugly and crowded. one last resort option? jump on my boat and search for clean water and a fun wave.
Matsuda-san and Hiroshi-san were my guests today and it is my job to find the best surf on any given day. today was much harder than others, but i had a place in my mind that i thought might work.
we left the dirty disgusting ala wai harbor with trash and debris everywhere. the water was so dirty that i couldn’t believe i’m even going to surf today.
look at bowls! OMG! you surf there today, you will get sick today. i’ve been diving for the past 20 years on the south shore so i knew where might be clean. just a little area of clean water were we can surf a fun wave? that would be a dream for today!
then i pull up to the spot! i see the reef under the crystal clear water. we were stoked! i throw my anchor, i throw in the boards, and we go surf!
and to make it even better, nobody is out!!! not a single soul in the ocean at our private surf spot. and it’s sunday? i told the boys “get a lot of waves now because there will be surfers paddling out for sure!”
just the 3 of us taking turns wave after wave. the conditions were perfect, the sun was shining, the water was clean, and the winds were light and off shore. it was like a dream session.
we surfed 2 hours with nobody out! i’ve been surfing this spot for the past 25 years and never in my life seen it empty. i still can’t believe nobody came out on this beautiful sunday morning. welcome to paradise!
then i pull up the anchor, head back into the ala wai harbor, see and smell the dirty water again, and told Matsuda-san and Hiroshi-san that they are very lucky surfers today, probably the luckiest on the island because i know where we surfed was the best spot for sure. ate a rainbows plate lunch and came home.
having a boat gives us the upper hand when it comes to days like this. no boat, no surf today. we never gave up hope and we were rewarded with a session none of us will ever forget. surf your dream!
