good evening. woke up 5am, picked up micah at 6am, and got to the north shore before 7am….
pulled up and seen 3 perfect backdoor waves been ridden by surfers i haven’t seen before. that’s how i knew it was uncrowded. we grabbed our boards and was out there. and yeah, it was uncrowded. the waves were 4′ in the beginning. then it seemed like it was dropping around 8am, then it started coming up again. i’d say solid 6′ with 8′ sets. there was even a second reef wave break catching everybody off guard. as for the condtions, epic. no winds and just sheet glass. the cool thing about today was everybody was mellow. nobody hassling or dropping in. it was a fun session at one of the world’s most famous surf spots…. i came in after a few hours and just couldn’t leave. the waves were just too beautiful. after hanging on the beach talking story, i’d figure i’d paddle back out and catch one more wave and call it a day. only one….
so there it was, a perfect backdoor wave out the back. i took off, bottom turned, and looked down the line. i was too deep and couldn’t make it so i straightened out and went in. with the next 10 day forecast expecting 3 swells with perfect light trade winds, i knew there would be more, much more…. i’m going to surf smart in march and catch waves that i can make so it will lessen my chances of getting hurt and lessen the chances of breaking magic boards. by the way, off the wall was epic and nobody was out. and no photographers in the water too. i guess that’s why it’s not crowded. the photo sluts went home. i’m the only one left. haha… i’m a pretty happy guy right now. thanks gordinho for this photo from today…
on the way back, i dropped micah off at haleiwa. gosh, haleiwa was going off too. the waves were 3-5′ and so fun. but i’m still in barrel mode so i’m just going to focus on getting my barrel or barrels of the year at backdoor. then when it’s all done, i’ll get my small board out and play around. gosh, i’m so happy that i’m going to have a hard time sleeping tonight. can’t wait till tomorrow. guarantee epic surf on the north shore…. good night….
by the way, the women’s pro bodyboard contest at pipeline gallery is up. check it out by CLICKING HERE…..
