yesterday was pretty nuts. i actually surfed the longest surf session in my life. then went for a short dive, then watched the fireworks from the ocean. at dinner time, i was pretty much falling asleep.
Furuya-san and i paddled out to bowls at 7:30am yesterday morning. then we went to rock piles and had the perfect waves to ourselves. i even got a pretty nice barrel. Furuya-san was surfing really good and our goal for our full 3 days of surfing is for him to get his surfing level up, way up. he kept on catching wave after wave and was getting better and better. then when i seen one of my friends out, i asked her what time it was. she said 11:40am. what? 4 hours surfing? then we ended up staying out another hour because the waves were so good and nobody was out. so that 5 hour straight surf session is my longest session in the history of my surfing career. i’m wondering how long we’re going to surf today and tomorrow? anyway, it’s Furuya-san’s first time to ever leave japan. everything here just excites him, even his first poke bowl.
went for a quick evening dive and stayed out to watch the fireworks. it was such a beautiful night!
and to see the fireworks from inside the water was just amazing.
Matsu, Toda-san, and Takami-san just came to hawaii yesterday. stoked to have my special friends close to me enjoying a perfect friday night in hawaii.
every friday night there is fireworks at the hilton hawaiian village. i’m going to try my best to go out every friday with my boat to see it because it makes me so happy.
