for the past 3 days, i surfed a total of 16 hours!!! omg, surf, surf, and surf! i feel so fresh, so healthy, so energetic, and so happy. been eating good, been exercising in the mornings, and been moving around so busy everyday. i walked up and down diamond head 2x to surf, and lost my board all the way to the beach because i wasn’t wearing a leash. i swam all the way from the outside to the beach, then paddled back out again. the past few days with the perfect conditions, i’ve been looking over at molokai out in the distance. i feel like i can paddle there and back no problem. i just need some time to make it happen. but for now, i’m going to work, take a few days off after tomorrow, take a trip, reset, and clear my mind.
we went to check bowls this morning. super small! so we drove over to diamond head and i was surprised to see perfect head high waves peeling all over the place. we paddled out, surfed for 4.5 hours, and had a great time!
Furuya-san asked me for advise on the first day. ever since then, i’ve been coaching him wave by wave and i can see him progressing into a very good surfer. he already had the basics down, but now has polished off some perfect turns, style, and great surfing. it was surfing boot camp for 3 days straight and now this surfer is ready for the next TSSC contest in shikoku.
after our long session, we were so hungry so decided to load up on some protein. ate the fattest piece of prime rib and finished it in 15 minutes. then i asked Furuya-san what he wanted to do. he said “surf!” so we went straight back to diamond head for round 2. i was so full!!!! but after a couple of waves, i was hungry to surf again! the waves actually go bigger than the morning. thank you Furuya-san for a wonderful 3 days of surf, surf, and surf. i hope you take what you learned back to japan and show your friends the new and improved surfer you are. good luck and see you in shikoku!
want to thank Toda-san and Takami-san for the healthy gifts from japan. can’t wait to crack an egg over this natto tomorrow morning.
and thank you for the fresh dried fish! i’m getting healthier and healthier!
yesterday i took this middle school girl for an evening session. super stoked she’s trying hard to get the cross step down.
well, another long day. you won’t be able to see me in the dark anymore unless i smile and show you my teeth. i’m as dark as can be, but i’m feeling so great on how everything is moving along in life. going to go to bed now with a big smile and wake up for another fun surf day. sweet dreams!
