about 15 years ago, i was surfing this secret river mouth in japan. the waves were almost exactly like this. 3-4′ and perfect left barrels. there were only a few of us out and we were all having a great time. on one wave, i caught a wave to the inside and jumped off my board before the shorebreak. i dove under the next wave and then BANG!!!, a huge rock hit me on the side of my eye. i almost knocked out but managed to make it to the beach. i was bleeding and feeling weird. local surfer nakaya-san grabbed me and escorted us to the hospital. i had to get stitches and couldn’t surf for a week. but you know what? it could have been worst. so every time i pass by this surf spot, i remember the kindness of one local surfer who’s name is, nakaya-san… those are the things in life you just don’t forget. i’m still trying to find a way to pay him back….
