when i passed by diamond head this morning, i knew it was going to be an incredible day! just perfect winds with a small south swell and perfect conditions.
it’s Tae-san’s 2nd day of surfing on this trip. a great improvement and my goal is to get her surfing a 9’0 high performance longboard.
bend your knees and look forward. good job Tae-san! great job this morning and see you again tomorrow. be ready for more long rides!
after surfing this morning, i spent some time waxing up some new longboards, changing fins, cleaning the truck, organizing my garage, then eating lunch. then i went to check out some condos for sale with my aunty. drove all around town going in and out of buildings for hours. after the 4th one, i was tired.
then went to visit grandpa and pick some tangerines. 94 years and strong!
then i grabbed my tool bag and headed to the moniz house. the kids boat has been broken and sitting in the garage for a while. it was getting dark but this evening was the only time i had time to go out to hawaii kai to take a look at it.
the boat is in a dark garage. there is no light. OMG! so i had to hold my iphone in my mouth using the light, then my 2 greasy hands working on the motor, steering, and cables. 2 hours of getting dirty and getting frustrated. i finally fix the steering so now i just have to buy the replacement cables and go back and spend 1 hour to complete the job. next time i’ll remember to take a flashlight.
so there i was in hawaii kai getting grease all over my hands and body. where where my nephews? on the north shore surfing! as i lay under the boat in the dark getting dirty and bit by choke mosquitos, i thought to myself “gosh, i must really love my nephews.” and yes, i do because if i didn’t, i wouldn’t have been out there today. haha.
ate fast food chinese and finally came home. it’s 8pm, going to take a hot shower, post this blog, and read a chapter in 1Q84. tomorrow will be another busy day surfing and doing all kinds of other stuff. good night as i’m going to recharge my body and mind batteries.
