good evening, i feel like i’ve been saying this for the past month but “shit, the waves were going off today!!!” perfect surf and weather with no crowds….
once again, i pulled up to off the wall and as i was walking through the path to the beach, i seen this perfect 4′ wave peel across and spit. and get this? not one guy out….
then i look right and saw this perfect wave peeling at pipe/backdoor. like always, i don’t check it for more than a minute before i’m running back to my car to grab my board. paddled out and scored…. i caught a set at backdoor, pulled in off the take off, and was driving through the barrel. kept going and going. next thing you know, i was already at off the wall. i tried to squeek out but the lip caught me at the end. by far my longest barrel of the year… and the whole time i was in the barrel, it was just me and the crystal lip going over my head. no photographers or bodyboarders getting in the way. that’s how empty it was… after that, you couldn’t wipe the smile off my face. and i’m still smiling… i love surfing….
after i came in, i was looking down the beach at the little sandbar. it was as beautiful as it gets. i just couldn’t resist….
this is mermaid aoi koike. 10X japan champ and 2008 pipeline pro champ….
and check this out. this is a hawaiian monk seal having the beach to himself…. one month ago, this beach would be lined by 100 photographers, pro surfers from all over the world, girls in g-strings, and a lot of stress. i can’t believe i made it through that. i’d rather have it the way it was today. there was nobody… gosh, it was beautiful. and the good news is, it’s going to be like this for a while more…. so get your ass out of your house and enjoy this island we call “paradise”…..[:Zzz:][:Zzz:][:?????????:][:?????????:][:??????:][:??????:][:????????$B!r(B:][:????????$B!r(B:][:??????:][:??????:]
**by the way, kelly slater vs. mick fanning surfing in the final at snapper rocks right now…. it’s going to be a good heat. don’t miss it…
