good morning. 5:45am and i can smell it. yeah, i can smell the waves going off. still pitch dark but i’m out of here. if it’s anything like yesterday, it’s all good. oh, was watching the quiksilver pro yesterday online and oh my gosh. the surfing level is so high. it’s like if you can’t do an air in your heat, you won’t make it. kelly slater is on another planet. he just keeps getting better and better. unstoppable….. anyway, have a nice day…
we had a barbecue at carter’s house the other night. i went there, grabbed a chair, and the boys cooked all the food. it was nice to get served and i didn’t realize that the food tastes better that way. thanks guys. and sorry i didn’t help but i know you understand…
this was like our 3 year bali trip reunion. gerald, carter, kenji, russ, and i took a trip to bali 3 years ago and had a great time. we were talking about doing it again….
this is a photo from that bali trip. complete with a cold bintang…. gosh, that was a fun trip. can’t wait to do it again…
old time bodyboard friend erin stopped by. i knew erin back in the days when we use to surf sandy beach. 20 years ago this winter, i seen her out at big sunset beach. i thought she was pretty hardcore because i only seen her bodyboard sandy beach before. anyway, a freak 10′ set came in and broke right in front of us. after i came up, i looked for her and didn’t see her. then right as the next set was approaching, i saw her pop up and she was freaking out. her leash broke and she panicked. i threw her my board and told her not to let it go. she hung on for her life and made it safely to the beach. since that day 20 years ago, i bumped into erin 3 times. and every time i see her, she gives me a big hug and tells me “thanks for saving my life”. i think that’s pretty funny. but i guess she was serious because she hasn’t gone near sunset beach since then….
