good evening. gosh, what another awesome day here in hawaii. the waves, weather, and everything is just awesome. all day long!! i’ve been waking up early in the morning for the past month and i still don’t mind. every single morning the waves have been perfect and it’s just getting better. yesterday was perfect but today was perfecter? is that even a word?
this is 7am at off the wall. sick waves with only one lucky guy out. that lucky guy was ryu nakamura. i watched him catch 3 waves all by himself with nobody around. grabbed my board and went to say hi on the way out to backdoor. paddled by ryu and he looked so dam happy. i didn’t want to bum his trip so i went to backdoor to grab a few. gosh, it was absolutely perfect. crystal clean long barrels…. then i went back to off the wall because i could see the photographers coming out. i guess sometimes i gotta work. it was only ryu and i. photographers kinsan and kenji sahara shooting from the water. then shuji kasuya and tetsu urayama paddled out. not even 30 min into the session, i caught my second wave. it was a shitty one and after it closed out, i jumped off my board and started paddling back out. i could see big sets coming in from the outside but i thought i could make it back out. see, if you don’t know, off the wall has no channel. catching a wave is the easy part, paddling back out is the hard part. you have to time it right our your in serious trouble. i started paddling back out as the sets came nearer and nearer. made it over 2, then there it was, a solid 7′ double up ready to break in front of me. i threw my board and dove under. i felt the board pulling my leash and then i felt the board not pulling my leash. i knew my board broke because destination makes the best leashes which never break. so there i was on the outside with a piece of my tail left. got pounded a few more times then finally made it back to the beach. i was on the way to my car to grab another board but thought, enough for today. i got barreled and there will be many more days to come. i was back in my car heading to town by 10am. a little bummed out, but happy bummed out. understand??
i break so many boards every year. at the pace i’m surfing recently, one broken board a day is enough. if i paddled back out, it could have been another one easily. as i was watching from the beach, i seen 5 guys coming in with broken boards. and watching dino miranda break 3 longboards 2 days ago, i’d thought today was already an expensive day for my surfboard sponsor. sorry yasan. but gosh, the waves were going off today. backdoor was at it’s best and the boys were getting deep long barrels. can’t wait to go out there again….
and on the way back passing waimea bay, i stopped to take this photo. i saw 5 whales in all different spots jumping around. where else in the world can you see all the things i seen this morning? i love this place….
and last, kelia borrowed uncle robbie’s camera one day and took some photos at her house. i kind of freaked out when i saw this photo of seth in her iphoto library because it looks pretty dam professional. gosh, i don’t think i could give such a cute smile like that to my older sister… haha…[:??????:]
