last night we were talking about when we should surf today. with this weird wind, it’s hard to predict the conditions from 10am to sunset. it’s usually calm in the morning and mother nature makes up her mind what to do after that. so going before 10am is good, before 8am is great, and at sunrise is best! so i picked up Team Ina at 6:30am, we paddled out at first light. it was such a beautiful morning!
Yuki-san still half sleeping all morning. i think she thought she was in a dream. haha.
and Inaida-san was very energetic, very active, very alert, and very good today. i think it was his best surfing ever till this day.
i can only explain how it feels surfing into the orange sunrise coming over diamond head. you just have to experience it yourself and understand why i don’t want to miss a minute of each day. Yuki-san on a beautiful wave on a beautiful morning.
the morning light is a photographers dream. you won’t find this golden light shining so bright making you glow so orange. look good at this photo and look how good shape Inaida-san is in now. natural muscles made by surfing.
the best way to start off a day. we were in by 8:30am and a full day ahead. went to kailua to look at boats, visited some friends, read a chapter of my book, drank an asai smoothie, ramen for lunch, helping my aunty clean up her house, and now going to dinner. have a wonderful evening.
