was super busy today doing lots of things. come 5:15pm, i seen the sun start to set and i heard the waves at bowls was overhead and perfect. drove down, paddled out at sunset, surfed with the pink skies, and came in a refreshed and very happy man. it’s amazing what the ocean can do to you. i just can’t live without it.
north shore dropping tomorrow into the 4-6′ range and perfect. bigger swell then this past one coming christmas day. maybe i’ll paddle out to waimea bay and shoot a youtube vid?
i was watching pipe today but it was nothing like yesterday. yesterday was huge, dangerous, and probably the best biggest day of the year so far. in fact, it was the biggest pipe i’ve ever paddled out to in my life. there must have been 60 surfers out at once and the crowd was more dangerous than the wave. everybody looking for the ultimate ride.
kumu’s are like gold. and when you know how to cook them like Maki-san, they’re even more gold. unbelievable preparation by Iron Chef Maki-san!
Hisako-san usually bodyboards so she knows a lot about waves and the ocean. so surfing for her was no problem. a very strong paddler and a very good surfer.
right foot front is “goofy foot” stance. Diamond Head back is paradise! welcome to “goofy paradise!”
for years and years, i use to crave for good sushi in japan. now, i don’t have to go to japan anymore to eat the best sushi. i just have to drive 10 minutes from my house and as soon as i walk into the new japanese sushi restaurant, i feel like i’m in japan, and the sushi is just as good as japan. the salmon they serve here is amazing. it’s like a one in a million with the best quality in the world. and also the most expensive piece of salmon you will ever eat.
anyway, gotta go to a party with some long time friends. have a wonderful evening!
