A Father's Angel

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i went to the airport to pick up Hiyori-chan this morning. JAL has a superb program for assisting kids to hawaii. super safe, super efficient, and super on time. Hiyori-chan only slept for 1 hour on the flight because she was nervous. i asked her if she was tired, she said “no.” i asked her if she wanted to go surfing, she said “yes.”
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so we loaded up the boards and went for her first surfing experience.
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the moment she touched the water, i seen the biggest smile come out of this very shy girl. tohoku is snowing and very cold right now. when i told her this is our winter weather right now, she couldn’t believe it. i shot video of her experience and it sure was a great one.
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we practiced at my house the basic 1, 2, 3’s of surfing. she got it perfectly on her very first waves standing up and riding it super long all by herself. it was a really exciting day for me!
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then we rode a lot of waves together. Hiyori-chan didn’t make any mistake today. her balance, her sense, and her drive is going to take her very far in surfing, and very far in life.
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then we played on the beach, ate teddy’s hamburger, she took a nap, and hopefully she’ll be getting a good sleep tonight because tomorrow is her first day of school at the YMCA! another exciting day for this amazing girl.
as i was downloading and watching the videos from today’s surf, i just started tearing. Hiyori-chan’s father was an amazing surfer from ishinomaki and also a hero to me. the story i heard about him trying his best to lower the dam to protect his hometown as the tsunami was coming was unbearable. he is still missing till this day but i could feel him in the ocean watching Hiyori-chan surfing today. i’m sure he was proud, and i’m sure he’s watching over his little angel growing up to become a beautiful and independent young woman. i better go before i start crying again.

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide