yesterday was one of my happiest days of my life. it’s just too hard to explain how it felt but if you came on any of our “We Are One” missions, you would know what i mean. Matsu sent me a text last night explaining his feelings as he knows Hiyori-chan very well. it’s amazing to watch Hiyori-chan’s facial expressions and smiles all day long. everything fascinates her in hawaii and i’m so happy to be able to share this part of the world with her. as we drove by Diamond Head yesterday, i told her “look at Diamond Head.” she said, “what is Diamond Head?” haha.
and what is spam musubi? haha. Hiyori-chan is in the kitchen making spam musubi’s for her lunch today. she will be entering a 2 week winter program at the YMCA where she will meet many new friend, learn english, play, and experience the hawaiian style of life. she’s so excited and so am i.
hey, thank you all the comments on the pipe video. it doesn’t get any more real than that. next time i shoot out there, i’m going to swim out, sit in the impact zone, and shoot everybody getting pounded by freak sets. i’m thinking of diving down deep and shooting up as surfers throw their boards and dive under for their lives. i remember last year surfing out there and getting caught by a 15′ set. i threw my board along with 40 other surfers, dove under the wave, and as i was under water, i heard “snap, crack, pop….” as boards and leashes were breaking. combined with the thunder of the wave. it was a one of a kind sound that i want you to hear. that is my next goal.
anyway, if you didn’t see the vid yet, check it out. there was one set in there that cleaned up the lineup. imaging diving under a wave that big! and check out John John Florence’s 2 sick pipe waves from the water. what a amazing day it was!
[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b2OR-A5l-JI[/youtube]
