december 31, 2013 i pick up Kurihara-san and Wife. we check everywhere and the waves were super small, inconsistent, and crowded. diamond head? bowls? diamond head? bowls? after driving around, we decide to surf bowls and that was the best decision on this last day of 2013.
i told Kurihara-san to stay right by me and he did. i counted 20 set waves in the 2 hours we were out and he caught 18 of them. i’m not joking as he caught wave after wave and paddled back out with a smile after smile.
super stoked to surf with Kurihara-san. he’s a friend of Katsura-san and is also a swimmer. so taking off on a 5’6 was no problem for him.
look how perfect bowls was! we scored big time! just wanted to say sorry to all the other guys out there trying to catch a decent wave. Kurihara-san and i caught all of the best ones. i bet everybody was so happy when we went in. haha.
we paddled in pretty satisfied and you can see Kumiko-san in the back standing on the wall. cool photo.
warm water, blue sky, trunks, and glassy conditions. what a perfect day!
then i went to pick up Hiyori-chan from school. last night i taught her how to turn left and she did it on her first wave. now she can turn right and left so her level will go up pretty fast from now.
this is a perfect example of perfect surfing. bend your knees and look forward! if everybody did this, the ocean will be a much safer place.
after riding the 10′ perfectly. i put her on Kelia Moniz’s 9’0. it’s thin, narrow, and unstable. BUT, Hiyori-chan stood up first wave and turned right and left. i was amazed on how good she’s gotten so fast. before she leaves, i’m hoping to get her on a shortboard.
then i asked her “what is that mountain in the back called?” she said “i don’t remember!” OMG! Diamond Head!!!! haha.
then we went fishing. i hope Hiyori-chan doesn’t overheat again. in fact, i’m going to make her drink a big glass of water now.
going to eat soba and enjoy this last evening of 2013. tomorrow is a new year and i’ll be a new person! new vision, new goals, new thinking, and new destinations. see you next year in 1Q84. oops, i’m mean 2014!
