today was another hard day to find good waves. i got up early and looked everywhere on the cameras. high surf warning, bad winds, and bumpy conditions. it was the second day to take Osaki-san surfing so i was a little worried. yesterday we surfed diamond head so today i wanted to try something different. with the waves getting huge on the north shore, we took the chance. as we drove down the mountain, we could see big white water so i knew it was already 10′ at some spots. we pull up to haleiwa, only 5 guys out, looks big, but that was our only choice.
when you pull up in the morning to haleiwa and see a lot of people watching the waves, you know it is big! if the waves were small, all these guys would be surfing. but when it’s big, it’s another story. so i knew it was big!
it was Osaki-san’s north shore big wave debut. he’s never rode a gun before, so i let him use mine. he’s never surfed big waves before so he was so nervous. we paddle out in the rip current to 6-8′ haleiwa. i knew it was going to get over 10′ soon so i told him to stay near me. if you get caught inside by a freak set, you are screwed. the first freak set came in and Osaki-san dove under. i seen his board sticking straight up so he must have been 8′ under water for a long time. i thought to myself “omg, i hope i don’t have to do CPR today.” he came up, we laughed, and he paddled back out. shortly after, i see a big set coming and yell “GO!” he turned around, paddled, and took off on the biggest wave of his life! on the way back to town, i told him “you will probably forget about yesterday’s diamond head session, but you will never forget today’s.” he agreed. what a great experience for this new big wave charger! good job Osaki-san! next time, we go bigger!
Haleiwa was the best spot on the entire island of oahu today and we where there bright and early! i seen some of my friends after telling me they drove around the whole island and ended up at haleiwa. score.
then went to visit some turtles at a secret beach down by mokuleia.
100 times i go, 100 times i see turtles.
tomorrow is going to be another hard day to find good waves. but i already know where i’m going! good night.
